How to Make a Custom Mechanical Keyboard

Nowadays, two main types of computer keyboards are very common: dome-switch keyboards and mechanical keyboards. Dome-switch models, also known as “rubber dome” keyboards, are usually the cheaper choice, with some costing as little as $20 or even less.

These are often the basic keyboards bundled together when you buy a desktop computer. However, after experiencing a high-quality mechanical keyboard, particularly one that you have built yourself, it becomes difficult to go back to these basic versions. (Yes, building your own keyboard is becoming increasingly popular.)

Why Should I Go With a Mechanical Keyboard and Build My Own?

Understanding the major difference requires looking closely at what lies beneath the keys. Dome-switch keyboards are made up of keycaps (the plastic tops marked with symbols), a flexible sheet of rubber-like material shaped into domes (sometimes individual domes for each key), and a printed circuit board (PCB) placed underneath.

Pressing a keycap causes the dome underneath to compress, connecting an element on the PCB to send a signal to your computer. The same dome provides the spring-like action needed to push the keycap back up.

However, there is no clear tactile feedback confirming when the key is properly pressed; instead, the keys feel soft and squishy. Over time, the rubber material also tends to wear out.

Mechanical keyboards take a different approach by replacing the rubber sheet with individual mechanical switches to handle each key press. These switches, made with springs and plungers, usually provide a more pleasant typing feel and last far longer.

They also allow for more personalization options, making them a favorite among those who type a lot. However, mechanical keyboards generally cost more, with basic models usually starting from around $60 to $75 for a full-sized layout.

Building your own keyboard can be even more satisfying than buying one ready-made. Those who enjoy working with their hands or want to better understand the devices they use daily now have more opportunities than ever to assemble custom mechanical keyboards. This article will introduce the basic steps needed for a first-time custom keyboard project.

You will gain more insight into how each component works together and be able to tailor every element of the typing experience to your preference. While you will still spend more money than you would on a standard rubber dome or an off-the-shelf mechanical keyboard, the pride of having something unique and personalised makes it worthwhile, especially when others are still struggling with basic keyboards.

The Inland Gaming MK Pro 75% Barebones kit will serve as the foundation for this guide. (Inland is the store brand of the well-known electronics retailer, Micro Center.) We previously tested the pre-assembled version of this keyboard and found it quite impressive.

In this guide, we will go over each part of the keyboard, explain why you might pick one type of component over another, and suggest some possible upgrades if you decide to go further with your project.

Step 1: Lay Out the Parts

Even though mechanical and dome-switch keyboards share similar external components, the way key actuation works sets them apart. Every keyboard requires a frame (most times made from plastic, although some premium options use aluminium), and a PCB designed to fit perfectly inside the frame. (Think of the PCB as the brain of the keyboard, carrying out all electronic functions.)

The other key components are the keycaps and a cable that links the keyboard to your computer or provides charging for wireless models. One main difference with mechanical keyboards is the presence of separate switches beneath every key, a feature missing from rubber dome designs.

While the number of required parts seems small, the choices available for each part can quickly become overwhelming. For this reason, beginners will find it easier to start with a barebones kit like the Inland Gaming MK Pro.

This kit has already combined several important components for you: it comes with a matched frame and PCB, along with foam sheets that help reduce sound. One useful feature to note is the “hot-swap” design of the PCB, which allows you to install switches without soldering them in place.

Although soldering can make for a sturdier, permanent build, it also makes it harder to swap out switches later. With a hot-swap PCB, you can simply push the switches into their slots, and replace them whenever you feel like experimenting with different ones.

Your frame will influence several aspects of your keyboard, starting with its size. A full-sized keyboard, which has a function row and a number pad, is referred to as a 100% layout. Smaller keyboards are measured as a percentage of this standard size.

Some keyboards shrink down to a 40% layout, which keeps only the letters, some punctuation, and a space bar, with numbers becoming secondary functions. On the bigger side, keyboards with extra keys can offer additional programmable shortcuts and features.

Besides layout, your choice of frame material affects the feel and weight of your final build. Many enthusiasts prefer a heavier keyboard because it feels sturdier during typing sessions.

Some even go the extra mile by adding weights inside the chassis to make the keyboard more solid. Denser materials can also help to absorb vibrations, reducing unwanted sounds within the keyboard.

The Inland Gaming MK kit we are using is a 75% layout version, made from aluminium. It includes a plastic section around the frame designed to let RGB backlighting from the PCB shine through. An infographic below highlights how all the different parts fit together inside the board.

Those starting from scratch and collecting parts individually must check that the PCB they choose matches the frame they intend to buy. Compatibility can be an issue because not all PCBs are universal.

Frames are often designed with particular PCB models in mind, and manufacturers usually list compatible options in their product details. By using a kit like the Inland Gaming MK Pro, you avoid worrying about such compatibility concerns, since the frame and PCB are packaged together.

A USB-C-to-USB-A cable comes with the kit, along with pullers for easily removing switches and keycaps. However, it’s worth noting that a typical USB-C cable costs very little (unless you opt for premium versions, like those coiled cables that can go for about $50), and keycap/switch pullers are easily found for just a few bucks. While these extras make life easier, they do not offer huge additional value.

Extra features in this kit that are missing from similarly priced pre-built keyboards add even more appeal. Apart from the frame and PCB, you also receive sound-absorbing foam, gaskets, and stabilizers.

Stabilizers are crucial for keeping bigger keys like the spacebar steady when pressed. Although our Inland kit already comes with stabilizers pre-installed beneath the larger keys, some kits require you to purchase and install them yourself. You can pick stabilizers in various colours or materials, but ensure they match your PCB’s requirements.

Sound-absorbing foam and gaskets serve as optional upgrades that greatly enhance the typing feel. Gaskets act as buffers between the top plate and the PCB, softening the energy from keystrokes. Meanwhile, the foam helps fill in gaps to quieten sounds.

Their combination gives the Inland kit its impressive quietness, and we strongly advise getting them if you’re building from scratch, as they are quite affordable. (Since our Inland kit already had them pre-installed, there’s no need for extra installation steps.)

We are also including a set of Holy Panda switches for this custom build (we’ll talk more about them shortly under Step 2) and a set of Inland keycaps, which will be covered under Step 3. Here’s a brief rundown of the parts we’re working with:

• Inland Gaming MK Pro 75% Barebones Keyboard – $84.99 at Micro Center

• Inland Spherical PBT Keycaps (Blue & White) – $17.99 at Micro Center

Step 2: Choose and Install Your Switches

Selecting the right switches will greatly affect how your keyboard feels and sounds when you type. The number of available key switches is large, and describing each one would take far more space than we have here.

If you are interested in a detailed explanation, you can refer to Zackery Cuevas’ complete guide on key switches. For what we are doing now, let us focus on three major categories of mechanical switches, based on their tactile feedback and sound.

The first group is linear switches. These ones move straight up and down without giving any tactile bump or clicking sound. They offer a smooth typing experience and are the favourites of gamers who prefer quick, uninterrupted keystrokes.

Then we have tactile switches, which give a noticeable bump when you press them down, indicating that the key press has registered. This type appeals to typists who enjoy getting feedback with every stroke. Lastly, clicky switches produce both a tactile bump and a loud clicking sound, making them ideal for people who love audible confirmation as they type.

For our own project, we selected the Holy Panda switches, a tactile variety well-loved for their satisfying bump and quality construction. They provide a strong, rounded tactile feel without producing an overly loud click, striking a good balance between responsiveness and noise control.

Thanks to the Inland Gaming MK Pro’s hot-swap feature, installing them was as simple as pushing them into the sockets on the PCB, without needing soldering. You must ensure that each switch’s pins align correctly with the socket before pressing down gently but firmly. If you bend a pin, you can straighten it with a pair of tweezers.

Installing switches by hand allows you to feel every step of the build come together, and it also means you can later replace individual switches if you desire a change.

Whether you prefer mixing switch types across the keyboard for different purposes (e.g., softer switches for typing keys, firmer ones for gaming keys) or sticking to one switch style across the board, hot-swap keyboards give you that flexibility.

Step 3: Add the Keycaps

Once all the switches are properly installed, the next task is fixing the keycaps. Keycaps serve both an aesthetic and functional purpose: they define how your keyboard looks and how it feels under your fingers.

You will come across several types of keycaps made from different plastics, with the most common materials being ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) and PBT (Polybutylene Terephthalate).

ABS keycaps are generally cheaper and lighter, but they tend to wear down and develop a shiny surface over time. On the other hand, PBT keycaps are thicker, more durable, and resist that shiny look even after prolonged use.

They usually feel more solid when typing and are often favoured for custom builds. For our own build, we picked Inland’s Spherical PBT Keycaps in a blue and white colour scheme.

Their textured finish, along with the pleasing colour combination, added both style and substance to the final product. Putting keycaps onto your switches is easy: you simply line up the stem of the switch with the hole on the underside of the keycap, then press down firmly.

Pay close attention to your keyboard’s layout while installing the keycaps, especially if you are using a non-standard or compact arrangement like the 75% layout we chose. Double-check keycap sizes for wider keys like the spacebar, shift, and enter keys, since they often need stabilizers or specially shaped caps.

By the time you fit all your keycaps in place, your keyboard will already look fully functional and ready for action. But if you wish to take things a step further, there are still other upgrades and personal touches you can add.

Step 4: Test and Customise Your Keyboard

Now that the keycaps and switches are properly installed, the next thing is to test your keyboard. Connecting it to your PC using the included USB-C cable, you can then confirm that each key registers correctly. Free online tools such as Keyboard Tester will help you check each key one by one.

If you find any keys that do not respond, the first thing you should do is reseat the switch to make sure its pins are properly in contact with the PCB. If necessary, gently remove the faulty switch with the puller and reinstall it. Most cases of non-working keys in hot-swap builds are due to improperly seated switches, so patience at this stage is important.

After verifying that your keyboard is working perfectly, you can also begin tweaking how it functions. Many PCBs today support custom firmware like QMK or VIA, which allow you to remap keys, create macros, and even set up multiple layers of function keys for advanced use.

For example, you can set a layer where pressing a key changes the function of all other keys temporarily, giving you quick access to shortcuts without adding extra physical keys.

Customisation possibilities also extend to RGB lighting. If your PCB and frame support it (as the Inland MK Pro does), you can program dynamic lighting effects or solid colours to match your workspace mood or gaming setup. These tweaks allow your keyboard to feel truly yours, in both performance and appearance.

Step 5: Fine-Tune the Feel and Sound

At this stage, you already have a working keyboard that looks great. But if you want to reach the highest level of quality and satisfaction, you can fine-tune how the keyboard feels and sounds. Many mechanical keyboard enthusiasts invest extra time to modify their builds with simple improvements that can make a big difference.

One common upgrade is lubricating the switches. By applying a small amount of lubricant to the moving parts inside each switch, you can reduce scratchiness and improve smoothness.

It also helps to dampen any unwanted noise from the key press and release. Lubing switches is a delicate and time-consuming process, as you need to open each switch and apply the lubricant carefully. But for many builders, the smoother typing experience it delivers is well worth the effort.

Another simple but effective mod is adding foam between the PCB and the case. This step helps to absorb vibrations and dampen hollow sounds when you type. Some cases even come with foam included, but if not, you can cut sheets of neoprene or similar material to fit your case. Plate foam (between the switches and the PCB) and case foam (between the PCB and the bottom of the case) both make a big difference.

You can also use switch films. These are thin layers placed inside the switches to tighten them up and reduce wobble. Adding films improves the overall sound consistency across your keyboard, giving each keystroke a more solid feel.

We went the extra mile in our build by applying lube to our Holy Panda switches and inserting case foam. The end result was a keyboard that did not only look good but also felt silky smooth and produced a deep, satisfying “thock” sound with every keystroke — a far cry from the harsh clatter of cheap, mass-produced boards.

Step 6: Enjoy Your Custom Keyboard

After going through all these steps — picking the right switches, installing keycaps, testing and tuning — you now have a fully personalised mechanical keyboard, built by your own hands. The result is something that not only meets your performance needs but also reflects your personal style and effort.

One of the most satisfying parts of building your own keyboard is knowing you can continue to upgrade and tweak it over time. You might later decide to swap in different switches, change keycap sets, or flash new firmware to unlock even more features. A custom mechanical keyboard is never truly “finished” — it can grow and evolve alongside your needs and taste.

Using a keyboard you built yourself transforms the simple act of typing into a much more enjoyable and meaningful experience. Whether you are working, gaming, or just chatting with friends online, every keystroke reminds you of the thought and care you put into your creation.

Final Tips and What to Try Next

Now that you’ve built your custom keyboard, here are a few tips and ideas to keep the journey going:

Experiment with Switch Types: If you feel like you’ve reached a dead-end with your current switch choice, don’t hesitate to try something new. Linear, tactile, or clicky — each type of switch has a unique feel and sound. Switches like Gateron, Cherry, or even boutique options like NovelKeys Creams can give you a new typing experience.

Firmware Customization: Many custom mechanical keyboards support QMK or VIA firmware. These platforms allow you to reprogram your keyboard’s keys, adjust the RGB lighting, and even set up macros. It’s a great way to add a personal touch to how your keyboard behaves.

Keycap Collection: Once you’re satisfied with your switches and build, consider building up a collection of keycap sets. There are hundreds of different profiles (like Cherry, SA, or DSA) and colorways available, each providing a distinct look and feel. You can also check out artisan keycaps to add a unique flair.

Consider Sound Dampening Mods: If your keyboard still feels too noisy, you can explore additional dampening mods. Adding dampening rings (O-rings) under your keycaps can reduce the sound of bottoming out when you press the keys.

Join Online Communities: Custom keyboard enthusiasts thrive in online communities like Reddit’s r/MechanicalKeyboards or the Geekhack forum. It’s an awesome way to learn about new mods, get advice, or even find inspiration for your next build. Plus, you might come across a group buy or an upcoming switch release that you’d love to try out.

Remember, building a keyboard is just the beginning of a whole new world of customization and fine-tuning. Whether you’re a first-time builder or a seasoned veteran, there’s always room for experimentation. Don’t be afraid to try new things, and soon enough, you’ll have a keyboard that’s perfectly tailored to your needs, preferences, and style.